Pre-season Ice on Mt. Washington

Although not as sexy as the video post below, a recent foray to Mt. Washington's Tuckerman and Huntington Ravine had plenty of ice to go around. Tuckerman Ravine, while known for its excellent spring skiing, is also a great destination for early season ice climbing. With a moderate angle (main line is about WI3- in rating at its steepest) and several hundred feet of climbing, a climb in Tuckerman Ravine is a great way to get into the winter spirit and brush off your ice skills.

A view of Tuckerman Ravine from the headwall, looking back at Wildcat Ski Area and Pinkham Notch. Photo courtesy of Alan Chu.

 

My partner Alan and I started from Pinkham Notch and walked in to Hermit Lake shelters with enough gear to force us to strip down to pants and tshirts during the walk, despite the sub-freezing temps. While my goal was to get in some "weight training" and replicate a long approach with several days worth of winter camping gear, Alan was less than thrilled with my packing list (however, there was no complaining later when we spent a night in the shelter completely comfortable, with full bellies and a warm sleeping bag). After setting up camp at Hermit Lake, we pulled off three pitches of Tuckerman's main headwall, topped out at the Alpine Garden, and descended the Lion's Head Trail in 80+ mph winds and darkness.



Nate, fired up to tackle the headwall





 



Following a stripped-down approach, Alan finally decides that it's cold enough for a jacket.

After a comfortable night in the Hermit Lake shelter (again, no complaints about heavy packs now!), we awoke to rapidly thawing weather. A warm front pushed temperatures up to above freezing
 by 7am and, by the time we set out for the Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, the trees were dripping. After negotiating the talus field below Pinnacle, we roped up and swung leads up the gully, stretching the rope to make the top in three pitches. A quick bite to eat in the Alpine Garden, and then down Lion's Head again for a walk out in the dark.

Roped up in Tuckerman Ravine

Tuckerman's headwall was a snow slog near the top. Nate, relieved to be done with waist-deep drifts and turf shots.

 Considering that this was before Thanksgiving, the conditions were nothing to complain about - it was a great warmup for the season, climbing with packs and moving quickly through belay transitions. While the "real ice" won't be in until January, getting out early is key to working out new techniques, testing new gear, and identifying weak areas in fitness and knowledge before you're committed on big flows.

Tea time in the Alpine Garden