Pre-season Ice on Mt. Washington

Although not as sexy as the video post below, a recent foray to Mt. Washington's Tuckerman and Huntington Ravine had plenty of ice to go around. Tuckerman Ravine, while known for its excellent spring skiing, is also a great destination for early season ice climbing. With a moderate angle (main line is about WI3- in rating at its steepest) and several hundred feet of climbing, a climb in Tuckerman Ravine is a great way to get into the winter spirit and brush off your ice skills.

A view of Tuckerman Ravine from the headwall, looking back at Wildcat Ski Area and Pinkham Notch. Photo courtesy of Alan Chu.

 

My partner Alan and I started from Pinkham Notch and walked in to Hermit Lake shelters with enough gear to force us to strip down to pants and tshirts during the walk, despite the sub-freezing temps. While my goal was to get in some "weight training" and replicate a long approach with several days worth of winter camping gear, Alan was less than thrilled with my packing list (however, there was no complaining later when we spent a night in the shelter completely comfortable, with full bellies and a warm sleeping bag). After setting up camp at Hermit Lake, we pulled off three pitches of Tuckerman's main headwall, topped out at the Alpine Garden, and descended the Lion's Head Trail in 80+ mph winds and darkness.



Nate, fired up to tackle the headwall





 



Following a stripped-down approach, Alan finally decides that it's cold enough for a jacket.

After a comfortable night in the Hermit Lake shelter (again, no complaints about heavy packs now!), we awoke to rapidly thawing weather. A warm front pushed temperatures up to above freezing
 by 7am and, by the time we set out for the Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, the trees were dripping. After negotiating the talus field below Pinnacle, we roped up and swung leads up the gully, stretching the rope to make the top in three pitches. A quick bite to eat in the Alpine Garden, and then down Lion's Head again for a walk out in the dark.

Roped up in Tuckerman Ravine

Tuckerman's headwall was a snow slog near the top. Nate, relieved to be done with waist-deep drifts and turf shots.

 Considering that this was before Thanksgiving, the conditions were nothing to complain about - it was a great warmup for the season, climbing with packs and moving quickly through belay transitions. While the "real ice" won't be in until January, getting out early is key to working out new techniques, testing new gear, and identifying weak areas in fitness and knowledge before you're committed on big flows.

Tea time in the Alpine Garden

ICE FALL: Night Ice Climbing | Scandinavian Frost Giants

As the temperatures drop throughout the northern hemisphere, not everyone is headed indoors! If climbing frozen water flows with spikes on your hands and feet doesn't get you excited, then the video below just might do the trick. I came across this by chance today and it's already become my anthem for the start of ice season. If only from an artistic point of view, the integration of music, film, and amazing athleticism is very impressive. 

 

Welcome to From the Spire!

Welcome to the first post From the Spire, a collection of writings and media that explore the relationship of humans with mountains. Inspired by the unique view of the landscape that an individual achieves from the High Places of the world, be they human-built spires or towering granite peaks, From the Spire seeks to present its audience with a selection of thought-provoking and original posts that will change your view of the world around. Focusing especially on leadership lessons, mountain conservation issues, and literature reviews, From the Spire attempts to use creative thought, adventure, and natural wonder to connect people with new ideas and places. Be forewarned, however, that you are entering a complete experiment in thought, observation, and expression that is completely untested! While the author makes no pretense to know where this blog will take its readers, he can only hope that wherever you end up, it's somewhere where the ground is rocky, the air smells of cedar, and, when you look down, you are surprised to see eagles flying below.

For the month of December, as we close out the old and prepare for a new year, From the Spire will focus on posting pieces that simply inspire. What they inspire will be completely up to you - whether it's a trip report that proves that warm weather isn't necessarily kind weather or a leadership observation that becomes a New Year's resolution. So keep your snowshoes and mittens close because, after your screen time, you'll want to get out and find a higher view!



Remember ... it's always colder somewhere else. Camp on Frobisher Bay, Baffin Island, Canada. March 2014.